Have you ever wondered what was very good to order as far as vintage sound recording machines was concerned? It could possibly be confusing. Immediately after all, there is a ton of it on the market, generally made use of, and it could be tough to locate products that you just can depend on and trust. Even so, there are many issues to seem for, and remembering several standard issues can definitely assist you to select the right equipment and keep away from receiving ripped off on products that just isn't excellent, or in superb affliction.
General Electric Transformer Auctions
US $25.56
Bear in mind that there are 3 important points to glimpse for so far as audio products, and people are variety, energy, and distortion. Classic sound gear is famed for its dynamic array, superior electricity, and absence of distortion. In fact, lots of people believe that the worst distortion occurs in digital type on the CD. This is because vinyl and mediums like it hide the flaws in a round about way covering them with richness and fullness of tone as a substitute of raw digital edgy chaos.
General Electric Transformer Videos
1.37 min. | 4.6 user rating
The long alleyway / service lane with the transformers was in the state of Kansas, The meters and service drop were in Enid, Oklahoma. had a lunch stop there prior to a storm / tornado chase later that day. I created this video with the YouTube Video Editor (www.youtube.com
Classic loudspeakers are good. Particularly if your seeking for significant effectiveness audio speakers, complete assortment loudspeakers, or Alnico loudspeakers. Be sure you verify the audio speakers in operating affliction, simply because they usually are incredibly tough to repair. When your acquiring vintage I might not get worried about cabinet blemishes because they shouldn't effect audio. Many declare that turntables deliver the very best representation of songs. Good turntables and information will absolutely give back a lot more than you shell out on them in case you value terrific sound. You should snatch these up if you uncover them in very good situation. In case you can get your hands on them, reel to reel players and tape are amazing. Brands to seem for are Teac, Pioneer and Sony. They might be cumbersome, massive, and hard to move, but they will make up for it after you listen to your higher top quality tape they employ. Also, try to remember to test on what kind of damage the classic unit has prior to casting your bid. Keep in mind which the unit in dilemma might be 30 decades aged, so overlook regarding the maker obtaining that which you must repair it up! You could purchase some things like lights and knobs from on the net dealers, however , you can assume to pay out a very penny often over $10 for your single knob! Also keep in mind that things like a defeat up scenario are difficult to resolve you can, even so, replace hardwood conditions really very easily, as if you treatment to expend the cash you could have a person custom built. And normally try to remember to look at prices. Don’t get used benefit of by paying a lot more than the merchandise is value! Vintage gear just isn't uncommon sufficient to interrupt the lender on, until you just come across some thing tremendous rare. So, exercising beneficial judgment, and don’t dump capital into something that isn't worthy of it.
General Electric Transformer question of the day
Question how do i correctly use this light bulb?
I have a 1KW light bulb, I want to plug it in and see how bright is 30,000 lumens. This lamp: General Electric DRS 1000W 120V made in USA http://www.donsbulbs.com/bulbs/g632/ib/drs|125v|1000w~ansi.jpg http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/drs-125v-1000w.html I do not have the proper base for it, is soldering some wires to the base ok? according to Don's Bulbs the bulb has to be burned with base down and it needs cooling? I've never used a lamp that gets so hot it needs to be cooled. a 200W lamp feels like a miniature sun after 2 minutes, how hot will this 1000W get and what is the typical setup for cooling? Finally, it has a life of 25 hours, its not a whole lot and I know under volting a lamp can increase its life, can I just use a dimmer switch? besides a microwave oven transformer I don't have any transformers that can handle anything remotely close to 1000 watts. -thanks i have two of these 1kW bulbs, found at a junk sale (wanted the projector too but it was too heavy). each was just a buck. so i'm not planning to buy any. if I can't solder on the wires, how about i make a socket out of some copper and ceramic (unfired clay)? that way the bulb isn't modified and nothing loosens within the bulb. the dimmer switch was the plan to control the current and voltage, obviously 8 amps @ 120v isn't something to fool around with. I forgot how dimmers work, if they control current then I could just drop the current to half and it won't be as dangerous. also, I figured it would be insanely bright, and extremely hot, so I'll be testing this bulb outside with at least 50 feet between me and the lamp. (in case it blew up) i just want to see how much neighborhood can 30,000 lumens light up at night.
Best Answer BTW --- What are you doing out of the Hunting Forum? They are missing you over there -- they've had some good questions in the past few days. These bulbs are very very hot !!!! And blindingly bright --- you really can't look directly at them without expecting eye damage. These bulbs are also very delicate --- if you move them too quickly the filament will break and detach. If I remember they were called "Projector Lamps". Used in the old "Movie Projectors" in Theaters years ago. Very expensive and hard to get. I believe just specialty photography shops used to handle these. They are light bulbs specifically for "Projectors". I am not sure what vintage of projectors, but since most projectors are essentially old technology now, replaced by digital technologies, I am not sure how much longer these will be around. I have used them before -- they were used in some video games with Projection lamps projecting images on a screen. Most of these are likely outdated by now. But as I said before --- extremely hot --- you can't touch it for 10 minutes after you turn it off. Very expensive and delicate --- the filament detaches easily if bumped or dropped. And extremely bright --- too bright to look at directly without expecting eye damage. And --- you will need a specific lamp socket to fit these. And add in a "cooling fan" --- it is absolutely necessary. Similar to a computer motherboard fan. Without air moving around this lamp continously, the tremendous heat generated will limit its life to probably less than an hour or two. These are specialty lamps --- nothing that you want even hooked up in your home. Intense heat, intense brightness, the probably fire hazard, or likely burn that someone will get touching it 5 minutes after it is off. A normal 100 Watt light bulb puts out about 1200 Lumens. This puts out about 25 or 30 times that. You probably should just leave this one alone.
I have a 1KW light bulb, I want to plug it in and see how bright is 30,000 lumens. This lamp: General Electric DRS 1000W 120V made in USA http://www.donsbulbs.com/bulbs/g632/ib/drs|125v|1000w~ansi.jpg http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/drs-125v-1000w.html I do not have the proper base for it, is soldering some wires to the base ok? according to Don's Bulbs the bulb has to be burned with base down and it needs cooling? I've never used a lamp that gets so hot it needs to be cooled. a 200W lamp feels like a miniature sun after 2 minutes, how hot will this 1000W get and what is the typical setup for cooling? Finally, it has a life of 25 hours, its not a whole lot and I know under volting a lamp can increase its life, can I just use a dimmer switch? besides a microwave oven transformer I don't have any transformers that can handle anything remotely close to 1000 watts. -thanks i have two of these 1kW bulbs, found at a junk sale (wanted the projector too but it was too heavy). each was just a buck. so i'm not planning to buy any. if I can't solder on the wires, how about i make a socket out of some copper and ceramic (unfired clay)? that way the bulb isn't modified and nothing loosens within the bulb. the dimmer switch was the plan to control the current and voltage, obviously 8 amps @ 120v isn't something to fool around with. I forgot how dimmers work, if they control current then I could just drop the current to half and it won't be as dangerous. also, I figured it would be insanely bright, and extremely hot, so I'll be testing this bulb outside with at least 50 feet between me and the lamp. (in case it blew up) i just want to see how much neighborhood can 30,000 lumens light up at night.
Best Answer BTW --- What are you doing out of the Hunting Forum? They are missing you over there -- they've had some good questions in the past few days. These bulbs are very very hot !!!! And blindingly bright --- you really can't look directly at them without expecting eye damage. These bulbs are also very delicate --- if you move them too quickly the filament will break and detach. If I remember they were called "Projector Lamps". Used in the old "Movie Projectors" in Theaters years ago. Very expensive and hard to get. I believe just specialty photography shops used to handle these. They are light bulbs specifically for "Projectors". I am not sure what vintage of projectors, but since most projectors are essentially old technology now, replaced by digital technologies, I am not sure how much longer these will be around. I have used them before -- they were used in some video games with Projection lamps projecting images on a screen. Most of these are likely outdated by now. But as I said before --- extremely hot --- you can't touch it for 10 minutes after you turn it off. Very expensive and delicate --- the filament detaches easily if bumped or dropped. And extremely bright --- too bright to look at directly without expecting eye damage. And --- you will need a specific lamp socket to fit these. And add in a "cooling fan" --- it is absolutely necessary. Similar to a computer motherboard fan. Without air moving around this lamp continously, the tremendous heat generated will limit its life to probably less than an hour or two. These are specialty lamps --- nothing that you want even hooked up in your home. Intense heat, intense brightness, the probably fire hazard, or likely burn that someone will get touching it 5 minutes after it is off. A normal 100 Watt light bulb puts out about 1200 Lumens. This puts out about 25 or 30 times that. You probably should just leave this one alone.
Question What caused a power surge to multiple homes on my block?
Hey, Looking for some insight here from anyone who knows more than I do about municipal power lines. A couple of weeks ago my fiancee backed a U-Haul truck into our driveway, pulling down the power lines that ran to our house and creating a nice shower of sparks. A Portland General Electric technician came and reattached the lines, which hadn't been detached completely but were hanging low near the ground. He also did something with the transformer across the street. Seemed to be a routine repair. Later, I realized that several appliances in my house weren't working. The problem wasn't with the circuits, but with the appliances themselves. Then I learned that several of my neighbors also have dead appliances: TVs, hot tubs, stereos, lamps, etc. So apparently there was a power surge that affected several homes. Several of us have filed claims with the insurance company that PGE works with. The mystery at this point is what caused the power surge, and that's my question. Is it possible that my fiancee pulling down our power lines could create a surge that would affect other homes on the block? Or would the surge have been created by a mistake on the part of the PGE technician who came to repair and reattach the power lines? PGE will be doing an investigation to see what happened, but I'm very curious about who's at fault here. I'd feel pretty crappy if I was responsible for all these dead appliances on my block.
Best Answer your accident could well have caused the surge that blew up all the appliances. .
Hey, Looking for some insight here from anyone who knows more than I do about municipal power lines. A couple of weeks ago my fiancee backed a U-Haul truck into our driveway, pulling down the power lines that ran to our house and creating a nice shower of sparks. A Portland General Electric technician came and reattached the lines, which hadn't been detached completely but were hanging low near the ground. He also did something with the transformer across the street. Seemed to be a routine repair. Later, I realized that several appliances in my house weren't working. The problem wasn't with the circuits, but with the appliances themselves. Then I learned that several of my neighbors also have dead appliances: TVs, hot tubs, stereos, lamps, etc. So apparently there was a power surge that affected several homes. Several of us have filed claims with the insurance company that PGE works with. The mystery at this point is what caused the power surge, and that's my question. Is it possible that my fiancee pulling down our power lines could create a surge that would affect other homes on the block? Or would the surge have been created by a mistake on the part of the PGE technician who came to repair and reattach the power lines? PGE will be doing an investigation to see what happened, but I'm very curious about who's at fault here. I'd feel pretty crappy if I was responsible for all these dead appliances on my block.
Best Answer your accident could well have caused the surge that blew up all the appliances. .