Have you ever at any time thought about what was excellent to acquire as far as vintage sound equipment was concerned? It can be perplexing. Just after all, you can find a lot of it to choose from, generally employed, and it could be difficult to locate tools that you simply can depend on and believe in. However, there are some details to glimpse for, and recalling a number of fundamental details can truly help you to choose the appropriate gear and steer clear of getting tricked on equipment that just isn't excellent, or in excellent issue.
JVC Amplifier Auctions
 Original JVC A-X30/X40 Amplifier Owners Manual  US $7.99
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 Original JVC A-E3 Amplifier Owners Manual US $7.99
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 JVC ~ A-X404 ~ STEREO INTEGRATED AMPLIFIER ~ AMP ~ FULLY TESTED & WORKS GREAT US $45.00
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 JVC R-S11 Stereo Receiver Amplifier New In Box US $196.47
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 JVC Amps & Tuners Brochure A-X900B, A-X500VB, A-X400 US $21.95
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 JVC Amps & Tuners Brochure JA-S77, JA-S55,A-S7 1975 US $17.95
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 JVC A-9X Amplifier Review, 3 pg, 1980, Full Test US $7.99
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 JVC P-3030 pre-amplifier review reprint US $23.09
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 JVC T-X200 FM/AM QUARTZ SYTHESIZER TUNER W/ A-K300 STEREO INTEGRATED AMPLIFIER US $99.00
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 JVC JA-S41 Integrated Amplifier Brochure 1975 US $17.95
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 JVC A-X1 Stereo Integrated Amplifier AMP NEW in BOX US $225.95
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 JVC RX-992VBK Stereo Receiver Amplifier + Remote NEW In Box US $294.71
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Bear in mind that you will find three important points to look and feel for as far as audio products, and people are collection, electricity, and distortion. Classic audio gear is famed for its dynamic array, top quality ability, and absence of distortion. The truth is, a lot of people feel the worst distortion takes place in digital kind on a CD. This is because vinyl and mediums like it hide the flaws in the round about way covering them with richness and fullness of tone alternatively of raw digital edgy chaos.
JVC Amplifier Videos
4.33 min. | 5.0 user rating
A video look/review on my new Vintage JVC (James Victor Company) system that I received from my teacher. Starting from the top. 1. JVC JT-V22 FM/AM Stereo Tuner 2. JVC KD-55 Stereo Cassette Deck + Super ANRS 3. JVC JA-S77 Stereo Integrated Amplifier Note: ANRS is Automatic Noise Reduction System. It is similar to Dolby Type B. If you want to know the specs they are on Vintage Audio.com Have any questions please let me know. Thanks For Watching.
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JVC Amplifier question of the day
Question jbl cs1204t & jvc amplifier?
Hey I'm a beginner in car audio stuff and I'd like to ask you how to properly adjust my amplifier for the best performance for the speakers and sub I got. My amplifier is bridgeable 4-chanell 800W JVC KS-AX6604. Subwoofer is a Tube JBL CS1204T (Peak power: 1000w, RMS: 250W) Two speakers Kenwood KFC-6972 (Peak power: 450w, RMS: 80W) What I did is: I connected speakers to the "Front panel" on the amp (no problems here), bass boost is to the half, level is half (when it's more my back shelf gives weird sounds), and frequency is 30Hz. I have some problems when coming to the sub, shall I connect it to right (or left) output or bridge it? When I bridge it the bass is stronger but when the volume is 25+ it distorts (Bass boost: 25%, Level: max, frequency ~100Hz), when I connect it normally (bass boost: 75%, Level: 100%, frequency: ~100%) it is not powerful enough. It my first car audio to connect... so sorry if the question is stupid :P.
Best Answer It should be bridged. The level setting is way too high. The sensitivity for that amp is adjustable to as low as 0.2v (max). Even a cheap HU should produce 2v or so at full volume. 1/2-3/4 on the level dial should be about right (that's assuming you have a 2v HU). The purpose of the level adjustment is to set it at a point where you can turn the HU volume up to about 3/4 full volume without getting distortion from the speakers. Setting it higher will not increase the output of the sub, it will only degrade the sound quality. Also, on the rear crossover, make sure you have the switch set to LPF. 100hz might be slightly on the high side for the frequency dial. Try it at around 80hz - somewhere between the 2nd and 3rd dot on the dial. It won't make a big difference, but it's worth a try. It may also help your front speakers if you use the HPF and set the frequency at around 50hz.
Hey I'm a beginner in car audio stuff and I'd like to ask you how to properly adjust my amplifier for the best performance for the speakers and sub I got. My amplifier is bridgeable 4-chanell 800W JVC KS-AX6604. Subwoofer is a Tube JBL CS1204T (Peak power: 1000w, RMS: 250W) Two speakers Kenwood KFC-6972 (Peak power: 450w, RMS: 80W) What I did is: I connected speakers to the "Front panel" on the amp (no problems here), bass boost is to the half, level is half (when it's more my back shelf gives weird sounds), and frequency is 30Hz. I have some problems when coming to the sub, shall I connect it to right (or left) output or bridge it? When I bridge it the bass is stronger but when the volume is 25+ it distorts (Bass boost: 25%, Level: max, frequency ~100Hz), when I connect it normally (bass boost: 75%, Level: 100%, frequency: ~100%) it is not powerful enough. It my first car audio to connect... so sorry if the question is stupid :P.
Best Answer It should be bridged. The level setting is way too high. The sensitivity for that amp is adjustable to as low as 0.2v (max). Even a cheap HU should produce 2v or so at full volume. 1/2-3/4 on the level dial should be about right (that's assuming you have a 2v HU). The purpose of the level adjustment is to set it at a point where you can turn the HU volume up to about 3/4 full volume without getting distortion from the speakers. Setting it higher will not increase the output of the sub, it will only degrade the sound quality. Also, on the rear crossover, make sure you have the switch set to LPF. 100hz might be slightly on the high side for the frequency dial. Try it at around 80hz - somewhere between the 2nd and 3rd dot on the dial. It won't make a big difference, but it's worth a try. It may also help your front speakers if you use the HPF and set the frequency at around 50hz.
Question JVC 800w amplifier + kenwood 1500w sub = problem?
My friend installed for me a car audio... but I have a problem when the volume is 22+, the amplifier turns off, and even on lower volume the subwoofer seems very weak. I have a sony xplod cd receiver, 2 kenwood 450w speakers and a 1500w kenwood subwoofer connected to a JVC 800w amplifier (KS-AX6604). My friend said that the sub out on the receiver doesn't work so he connected only the front input from the receiver to the amp and connected a wire between rear input and pre out on the amp. Can this cause the problem? I adjusted the Level on both speakers and subwoofer to half. I was experimenting with the sub connection to the amp and I found out that when I connect one of the subwoofer wires to (Rear Input-Left(-)) and the other to (Rear Input-Left-(+)) it doesn't cause amplifier to disconnect even on 32-33 volume levels, the bass inside the car is good however from the outside it's almost unhearable, just a bit of car body shake. I believe 1500w subwoofer should produce more, my friends have 1000w Sony subs and they can be heard from far away, while I can't hear my bass when I stand 15 feet away. Before it was (Rear Input-Left-(-)) and the other to (Rear Input-Right-(+)) like shown in the manual, it makes the bass clearer and more heard from the outside, but very weak inside and caused the problem.
Best Answer The method of getting signal to the amp should be adequate. Not the norm, but no reason it shouldn't work. Your HU is fine. I'm not sure why the consensus opinion of sony is so low for car audio. Sure, they're not the best, but for the average consumer I believe they offer decent equipment for the price. It would help if you referenced rms power instead of peak. From what I can piece together you have a 400w rms amp, a pair of 80w 6x9's and a 380w rms 12". My two concerns are -- is your subwoofer a dual voice coil? If it is are both coils connected. It may be possible the channel(s) running the sub are seeing too little resistance which is putting the amp in protect mode. The other thing I would verify is that your amp's power and ground wires are large enough (at least 8 gauge) and all your connections are good. Make sure there's no corrosion where the power wire connects to the battery, and make sure the amp's ground wire is the same size as the power and connected to a clean spot of bare metal. A bad ground that's dirty, greasy or painted can increase the resistance in the circuit considerably causing voltage drop and generally making life difficult for the amp(s).
My friend installed for me a car audio... but I have a problem when the volume is 22+, the amplifier turns off, and even on lower volume the subwoofer seems very weak. I have a sony xplod cd receiver, 2 kenwood 450w speakers and a 1500w kenwood subwoofer connected to a JVC 800w amplifier (KS-AX6604). My friend said that the sub out on the receiver doesn't work so he connected only the front input from the receiver to the amp and connected a wire between rear input and pre out on the amp. Can this cause the problem? I adjusted the Level on both speakers and subwoofer to half. I was experimenting with the sub connection to the amp and I found out that when I connect one of the subwoofer wires to (Rear Input-Left(-)) and the other to (Rear Input-Left-(+)) it doesn't cause amplifier to disconnect even on 32-33 volume levels, the bass inside the car is good however from the outside it's almost unhearable, just a bit of car body shake. I believe 1500w subwoofer should produce more, my friends have 1000w Sony subs and they can be heard from far away, while I can't hear my bass when I stand 15 feet away. Before it was (Rear Input-Left-(-)) and the other to (Rear Input-Right-(+)) like shown in the manual, it makes the bass clearer and more heard from the outside, but very weak inside and caused the problem.
Best Answer The method of getting signal to the amp should be adequate. Not the norm, but no reason it shouldn't work. Your HU is fine. I'm not sure why the consensus opinion of sony is so low for car audio. Sure, they're not the best, but for the average consumer I believe they offer decent equipment for the price. It would help if you referenced rms power instead of peak. From what I can piece together you have a 400w rms amp, a pair of 80w 6x9's and a 380w rms 12". My two concerns are -- is your subwoofer a dual voice coil? If it is are both coils connected. It may be possible the channel(s) running the sub are seeing too little resistance which is putting the amp in protect mode. The other thing I would verify is that your amp's power and ground wires are large enough (at least 8 gauge) and all your connections are good. Make sure there's no corrosion where the power wire connects to the battery, and make sure the amp's ground wire is the same size as the power and connected to a clean spot of bare metal. A bad ground that's dirty, greasy or painted can increase the resistance in the circuit considerably causing voltage drop and generally making life difficult for the amp(s).